The Todd Report:
We saw that
same system come through at north shores, Kirk said the same thing about
the waterspout... the conditions were probably the same in both places,
the wind was pretty nasty and made it hard to
drop in. before we surfed,
we met up with mitchell at njs ( what time did you check it?, we were there
around 8:30 or so) and i bought a 7'2 stewart funshape from him, a big
difference between that and that 7'9 i have....
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| Kirk Mantay Reports -
"At 40kts, Offshore Spray is Kind of Like Flying Rock Salt."
Rode east with Todd and checked out NJs around 8:30am. Moderate vibe and
a few (probably, we could barely see the lineup through the fog) guys actually
out, with about 12 cars already in the NJs lot. We opted to go south and
let the Lewes/Reho crowd do their thing in peace.
Headed down to north shores,
a few guys out but only at the first groin.... conditions were funky. Strong
south current, dumpy tubes in the 2-4' at first. Waves were closing out
in huge sections, but with pretty predictable shoulders. Guys on longboards
down at the main groin seemed to be having the most luck staying on the
small but
rolling shoulders, connecting
sections, etc. Todd was trying to get dialed into his new 7'2", not an
easy task wearing all that rubber and surfing in hard offshores.
As the front moved through,
conditions got really eerie--black storm clouds with some weird vertical
columns coming down from the cloud layer.... never saw the water start
to churn though. Anyway the surf got super glassy and 4-6' as the spray
flew 10' vertical and 30' back of the impact zone... Caught a few kinda
long rides with connectable
sections, rode lots of shoulders
off of the closeout sections, practicing some of the more aggressive turns
and cutbacks I've learned in the last few years.... even though sometimes
I gouged a cutback into the face only to turn and realize that the wave
had died in the trough....
Not a bad session. If the
current had been more manageable, would have been an epic session, being
able to dial into each "point break" (really just non-closed out shoulders)
would have been a plus. I was actually warm with a 2/1 springsuit under
the 4/3. Took a few pics, had a beer, kept waiting for spring!!! |