When:
Where:
Weather:
Winds:
Wetties:
Surf:
Tides:
Who: |
Sat,
10/12/02 - afternoon
IRIS
mid-60s air, 69F water;
cool, overcast, showers
15-20 kts plus, northerlies
Shorties, but anything
from trunks to fullsuits
5-7' wind waves, 3-6'
swell, ENE
High going to low
Foon, Chet and Rod as
on-lookers |
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Sun,
10/13/02 - morning
N. Rehobeth (yuk) followed
by 48th Street, OC/Md (yeah!)
mid-60s air, 69F water;
cool, overcast, showers
15 kts plus northerlies
/ NNW 8 kts (semi-offshore)
Shorties, but anything
from trunks to fullsuits
6-10' wind waves, 4-7'
swell, NE
Low going to high
Kirk, Neal, Keahi, Chet,
Foon, Rod, Todd,
Todd's friend, Paul,
MarkV |
The Build-Up:
Kirk Mantay: "Wave
Snob Forecast for the Needy and Desperate" (Thu
Oct 10, 2002 2:16 am)
Upon further review, I will
continue to provide these forecasts for $50, 2 crab cakes made of 90%+
backfin meat (prefer VA crabs, not MD), you should buy me a truck, and,
I think that about covers it. My work schedule is totally screwy, I am
an insomniac this week. Here's yer forecast:
Thursday: Onshore
winds chest+, not worth it.
Friday: dangerous
conditions, heavy onshores, surf head to poss. 2xOH. Victory at sea. Not
worth it.
Saturday: head+ N
windswell carrying yo a$$ down the bizeach. If you had been a hostage in
Iran and were freed, you might find a protected
south jetty and attempt
to surf...only to drown in the rip.
Sunday: Interesting.
Supposedly period of swell increased to 9.5 seconds, with swells OVER 2xOH.
I don't buy it. Other data suggests
head-1'OVH, more ENE wind
slop with NE winds. I'm going with that. Might be worth a drive to see
what a 10' wave at 9.5 seconds is like (never seen anything that big at
that period). Wedge might be epic, SSIRI will be big and extremely dangerous.
Be Careful everyone! I might go for the drive and take pictures, who knows.
My wife will have an ulcer if I paddle out in that crap and she's watching.
Aloha boys and girls.
Weekday aka Hula Hound
Paul's Forecast: "WAves !!!!"
(Thu Oct 10, 2002 10:48 am)
Looks like we are once again
in store for heavy surf again this weekend... Chincoteague Sunday? As of
now, models indicate the surf building in the chest+ range on Friday,
and into the overhead range for Saturday and Sunday. The exact track
of the low will be crucial to determine where the biggest surf is and how
the winds will be. So far, it looks like the pressure gradient will be
aimed mostly towards northern new jersey and up towards rd. island, but
we should see plenty of swell in Delaware and possibly more favorable winds.
Expect
head high+ surf saturday and early Sunday, with NE winds possibly becoming
lighter by Saturday afternoon. It appears by Sunday afternoon we will
see a NW wind shift and good surf conditions. A cold front and strong
NW winds arrive early Monday. There appears to be a decent fetch on this
swell, so
expect a chest+ ground swell
to last throughout Monday. Stay tuned for updates. Looking good so far.
Paul
| Mantay's
Friday Morning Update: There's
another data source now confirming the wacky "4mph winds" predicted for
Sunday morning. Looking good! Swell size also backing off to chest-head
sunday and chest on Monday. |
Mantay's Friday Noon
Update, "Forecast changes!!!":
Saturday: NWS forecast now
calling for offshore winds, but all other
data still indicating moderate
(10-15kt) onshores. If you're single, it might be worth the risk of a wasted
saturday morning to check it out *on the chance* that offshore winds are
there--you'll get clean head+ groundswell!!! If not, well, you get the
washing machine.
Sunday: NWS forecast now
calling for LIGHT OFFSHORES!, all other data indicating LIGHT ONSHORES.
So who cares! Whooo-hoo!!!!! Low tides at 730am (OC) to 830am (reho), so
charge it in the AM!!!! Chest to head surf!!! |
| Chet's
Saturday Morning Beach Report: It
was a dark and rainy morning... 6:45, NJ, the gates were not open but I
could hear the breakers from the road. I hiked in to the overlook and watched:
waist to head high full-tilt boogie washing machine. NFW.
Cruised down to GP. The rain
was now a heavy mist being blown by 15-20 knot winds - coming out of the
North East. The sky was showing signs of clearing over Cape May. Crumbling
waves, no pattern, but I did get a brief peek at a few green barrels. Very
hopeful
10:30am now and the rain
has stopped, winds are abating. Reports
call for an excellent window
of opportunity Sunday morning. Good
swell, and if it gels, shapes,
organizes, I'll be all over it! I'll try again on the tide change
later this afternoon. Maybe it'll be on the rinse cycle.
Chet
Kirk Responds:
We will be there!!! Forecast for light (0-5mph)
semi-offshores (NNW) for
dawn patrol tomorrow. Chest-head occ+.
Everyone should surf. There
are like 6 cars going down. No excuse not
to surf tomorrow!!!
|
Foon's
Late Sat. Afternoon Update:
In uptown OC we knew DP
was going to be crummy. Rod checked it anyway when he walked Cooler at
dawn, then went back to bed for 3 hours. By noon we guessed it was time
to check the coast and went North despite of the strong wind conditions.
A stop at SSIRI was enough to entertain us for a few hours has a large
crew of bbers, kneelos, and shortboarders took close in death drops in
the interest of precious little tubetime. A lot of asses got nailed to
the bottom and the very changeable conditions went from choppy windy to
clean but bumpy. Throughout our travels nearly everyone said Sunday would
be superior, to we kept our powder dry and look forward to the early phone
reports.
-Foon
Rod's
Pics From Indian River Inlet-Southside on Saturday. I regret not
going out on Saturday, but I was saving myself for Sunday. Probably
a good decision as it was a challenge paddling out at 48th St. on Sunday
and everyone was worked. Weather conditions Friday evening and Saturday
morning and into the afternoon ranged from misty and blowing to down pours
and blowing. Winds on-shore or downshore. These conditions largely prevailed
on Sunday as well (so no pics were shot). I shot the IRIS shots during
a brief two-hour dry spell. Foon and I entertained an initial encounter
with Chet Halleck, a welcome addition to the Club. Met JJ the Kneeboarder,
shot some pics of him (none of which do justice for some of his rides),
talked some story and shared shaper info. Also shot a few pics of a bodyboarder
that's easily older than Foon and I.
Rod's
Other Pics -- Others including the two below featuring Chet, JJ
the kneeboarder and Foon (damn! gotta get me in one of these) and the RockMan
Wave Warrior.
|
Sunday
Reports
Paul's Sunday Surf Report:
Met Mr. Foon at the circle
near Henlopen Hotel and watched the less than perfect conditions of the
Sunday AM. We later went to SSIRI and
paddled out for a few rides
(it really wasn't that bad!) However, good times were not to last long
as the tide was a'changing and the waves moved ever closer to shore. Didn't
seem the phaze the shortboarders and spongers though. We called it quits
after an hour or two and went north to check NJ's and Rehobeth ,looked
big but appeared to be cleaning up throughout the day sunday. Lot of guys
out there in each place. We decided to call it a day though... Nice helmet
Rod!
paul |
Chet's
Sunday Surf Report:
Early Sunday session from
the hotel parking lot where I met Neal, Kirk, Todd, & Keahi.
We rediscovered the drop-n-drown style on the big close-outs. Foon &
Suicide Rod joined us an hour later, with Rod in full warrior gear.
Good sized waves with a hellacious habit of pummeling those of us that
didn't choose wisely. We all got rag dolled. Keahi showed us how
the pros handle it, and Neal scored some long, screaming rides.
Chet |
Neal
Carver: Dung Day Redemption
An early departure from
Annapolis got us to Gordon’s Pond for our first surf check before dawn.
Kirk, Keahi, Todd, and myself had a hard time seeing the swell but we could
definitely hear it. We motored down to the parking lot in North Rehobeth
to take a better look and waited for the sunrise. Chet met up with
us at the parking lot and introductions were made. We had been in touch
with Rod and Foon via cell phone and they were checking southern OC. Since
Kirk, Keahi and myself were short on time, we decided to head out at GP
instead of hunting down perfection. We paddled out into some chest
to head high thumpers. We quickly realized that one had to be real
selective on take off. Many of the waves were closing out or barreling
over with unbeatable sections. Almost everything we rode was a left.
Still getting accustomed
to my short board, I took my share of late take offs. I made about
half of them only to find myself screaming down the line racing the lip
before airing out over the top to avoid a serious exfoliating take down.
The other half of my take offs were tad on the late side and I was taught
a serious lesson on numerous occasions. Keahi, armed with my old
6’2”, was taking off on some serious drops and tucking in deep. I
‘m not sure if he was making in out or not but it didn’t stop him.
Rod showed up bearing the sky blue helmet. He took a few but advised
us the 48th street was much better. He headed back to the car where
an observing Foon said he just met Mark and Paul. They said they
were headed to South side of Indian River. Sorry we missed 'em.
We headed to 48th and found
that waves were about a foot bigger, hollower, and little easier to drop
into than the dumpers at GP. Some had really long lines. The
drift was hard to keep up with, especially since I suited up in a full
suit for the second session. I had a couple of good rides and then
my leash was ripped from my leg and my board was washed to shore.
I decided to swim in and walk back to 48th. Keahi and I paddled out
one more time since we had a bout 20 minutes from departure time.
I had a hard time getting out and had to rest once outside. I was
a bit north of the lineup when a really nice head high wave formed on the
outside. I was in good position. I paddled and got a smoking
ride. It was fast with a steep shoulder. I am a very weak backside
rider but had the focus to think about this ride. It was a drop and
burn scenario. After I sped past a quickly closing section, the shoulder
in front of me showed signs of pitching. I crouched for the rail
and placed my weight towards the front of the board. I thought the
lip might just launch over my head. Well the wave pitched but my
line was a little too high and the lip exploded on my back. This
threw my balance off and I eventually separated from my board after a sixty-yard
ride. Although my ride was not as
graceful or as acrobatic
as it could have been, I got a lot of smiles and hoots from some of the
cockier guys in the line up. I guess I either looked like I was in
control or they were just hooting cause the wave was big. Either
way, it felt good. I decided that I would not be able to top that
wave, so I headed in and headed for home.
It was good day considering
we scored some surf and got to meet some of the new members. Summers over
and wetsuit time is here.
Rod's Report. Woke up easily
this morning... it's much easier on my old system to just drink 3 or 4
Guinnesses than three double G&Ts, but all the same fun!. Walked
my surf dog, Cooler, down to the beach for a long look at the swells and
winds. In the early morning darkness you could hear the size and
a decline in the white cap count, but still not the perfect offshores,
glassy barrels we'd been jonesin' to ride. By the time I made
it back up to the Foonbunker the first round of rich cafe had been brewed.
Grabbed a cup and fired up the cell line to the early bird ASC roadrunners:
Neal, Kirk, Todd and Keahi. Chet met them at N. Rehobeth. The northern
crew checked points north while Foon and I checked breaks to the south.
The 48th St. break wasn't up to the standard we had expected and nobody
was out. The northern crew was itching to get wet, reported conditions
as "not THAT bad," were suiting up and encouraged us to come north.
I was skeptical but said what the hell, let's go.
N. Rehobeth/North Shores
was not impressive. The wind was on it and all the waves appeared
to be closing out. What the hell. I put on the shortie for the first
time this season and strapped down my new Gath for a test ride as I wanted
to get a feel for the thing before using it with a purpose this winter
in PR. Todd and Kirk were clustered near the south jetty while Neal
and Keahi were clustered at the north jetty. Todd and Kirk were catching
few if any waves. Neal and Keahi were dropping into 4-6' vertical closeouts
-- I joined them -- time to make the best of it and meet Keahi.
I made several vertical drops
and closeout coverups before I started talking up the better wave conditions
down south. There was better surf to be ridden this day. Before
too long we all rode our last close-out bashers in and headed on a beeline
to 48th St. We were not disappointed. Winds had softened up
some more and were nearly offshore. A steady stream of 4-7 footers
rolled in, a mix of wind swell and ground swell. The lefts were spitting
some nasty juice on the shallow sandbar along with a good current carrying
paddlers south. I walked up several blocks in search of a good rip
tide to help me on my paddle out, donned the flippers and paddling gloves
and headed out. The swell mix made it a tough go but my first trip out
wasn't too bad. A second paddle out about an hour later left me pummeled
but unbeaten after nearly twisting my left leg out of socket on a wicked
6' suck me over from 6 inches of water and unceremonious planting moments
later. After a quick breath and long walk back up the beach I made
it out once again.
There was a good mix of head-high
and larger waves, steep drops, screaming shoulders, and plenty of tubing
action. A couple of shortboarders were all over it. Neal caught
an extremely long backside left that had him shooting like missile.
I know Keahi also caught his share of waves and enjoyed himself as his
wide smile betrayed any other hidden emotions. Foon rode about three
ICBMs before getting worked over on the inside sandbar and calling it quits.
The session was insanely fun for me, but there were a couple of waves that
appeared to be in the 8' range that had these wide open faces and lips
that simply taunted me from a short distance, so close but too far away
to catch. Aye dios mio! Nonetheless, my share of tubular walls blessed
me with some solid rides. Crowds were not a factor, longboarders
were absent, stoke was high and riders encouraged and raged on each other
all the way (except for some competition groms that were looked very constipated
every time they failed to pull of a "high points" maneuver).
The DPers headed back to
home sometime around noon. Chet, Foon and I grabbed some subs before heading
back to the Foonbunker for eats, brews, cigars (thank you Chet and Ferg),
football and a quick nap.
Headed home late in the afternoon
since my wife had to work on Monday. During the drive home Dan King
called and we arranged to meet for dinner at the Galway Bay in Annapolis
for dinner and treats... and most importantly to meet his lovely wife who
had flown east for a quick weekend visit. Long distance separation has
gotta be a real challenge for both of them as they are very much in love!
- Suicide Rodriguez
Bruce Gabrielson's Maryland
ESA Party Update (posted
Friday late afternoon): I've been told the Maryland ESA end
of season party is for current MD ESA competitors only.
Neal Carver Replies on
Monday: If this is true that the ESA is only letting "current
competitors" attend their end of year event, then I would have to label
the MD ESA as an ELITIST organization. Kind of funny how they don't seem
to have a problem taking you money! If this is true they can kiss my a$$
say so long to any money I would have donated in the future. However, I
fail to believe that they would turn their donators away from such an event.
Snake Report: "Sun at Assateague"
Surfed 48th St. until about
9:30am. The drift was rough but the few makable lefts were challenging.
With the wind direction favorable
for Assateague plus the
chance of less drift, I headed down to the National Seashore park.
About everyone and their brother were there
surfing long Hawaiian like
lines, big overhead lefts and rights, much less drift, and slight offshore
most of the day. Left around 3pm with
a sore back but plenty of
good waves.
Russ Canard: "SUNDAY and Oh
Yes MONDAY"
SUNDAY:
Alright fellows...made it
down to dewey with a buddy on sunday around 4 only to find chest to head
high clean waves. the dewey coastline was littered w/ surfers all over
the place. the waves stayed consistent for the next few hours until about
7 no crumblers here all barrels and nice once you can get a small cover
in.....it ws phantabulous. afterwards went out enjoyed some margs and mexican
and woke up only to find winds howling at about 15 mph out of the NE (i
think)
MONDAY:
Winds were out of control
come monday sand was pelting against our lega as we walked down to check
out the waves...it was blown out as we thought. We each grabbed some coffee
and a bagel and explored some various spots along delaware's coastline...went
to Gordon’s' pond, rehobo., doughboy beach, nothing...we then decided to
check out the inlet. Northside was a toilet bowl messy as shit...went to
SOUTHSIDE only to find very clean waist to head high waves that would give
you about 30 yrd rides. they would peel right off the jetty, which sheltered
the wnd blown seas, and would take you left down the coast... they were
so much fun i cannot even describe it ...even better b/c i am goofy foot
so everything went frontside.... anyway we went out form about 9 to about
12 until it started to become high tide then we left.
What a great way to come
back to work...success in the seas!
J. Russell Canard |
